In Ethiopia there are eleven monolithic churches that I hope to see someday. Carved right out of the earth in the 13th century, they’re unique in the world. To create these spectacular structures the builders first removed enough rock to expose an enormous solid cube. Then the interior of that block was carved away to create a sanctuary that was truly monolithic or ‘one rock,’ like those in the images above.
But if you know Bruce you can imagine his thoughts on visiting a country known primarily for Haile Selassie and famine. Since my chances of getting to Ethiopia are pretty slim, it's lucky for me that the two largest monolithic churches in Europe are located within 60 miles of Bordeaux.
The first church is in Saint
Emilion, a lovely little town that hasn’t changed much
in five or six centuries. The
second is the church of Saint Jean (shown in the images at the top of this post) located in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, one of the Most Beautiful Villages in
France. (Les Plus Beaux Villages de
France is an official designation and not simply my personal opinion.) Although these churches are both called ‘monolithic’, this description isn’t entirely accurate. Instead, both were carved into an existing cliff and are more like enormous caves.
The two churches are
located about 40 miles apart and were probably commissioned by Viscount Pierre
de Castillon, a nobleman with holdings in both St. Emilion and
Aubeterre-sur-Dronne. Pierre, who had fought in the first Crusade, may have
been inspired by the religious architecture that he saw in Cappadocia. Having mysteriously acquired some religious relics while in the Holy Land, he ordered the construction
of the two monolithic churches to house the precious items. For his pains, Pierre
was excommunicated by the Catholic Church that took a dim view of private
citizens reaping profits that should rightfully have been theirs.
The history of the
Monolithic Church of St. Emilion began in the 8th century when a
monk named Emilion, fleeing persecution in Brittany, arrived in southwest
France. Living as a hermit in a cliff-side cave, Emilion’s miraculous deeds
attracted notice and he gained a small following. A religious community was soon established, from which
the village grew. Exactly when the first church was constructed is unclear, but
it is thought that upon his death in 767, Emilion’s followers may have enlarged
his cave to create a small sanctuary. A modest church probably existed here for
the next three hundred years.
The improvements that began in the 12th century continued for
several hundred years, and included the addition of a 150-foot bell tower erected directly over the cavernous space. When this 3,000-ton tower threatened
to collapse the entire structure, the World Monuments Fund stepped in with a
plan to stabilize the church. Thanks to their efforts in the 1990s the original
supports were reinforced and the monolithic church was saved.
Perhaps the best image of the church is this sketch by Leo Drouyn from the early 19th century. |
Drouyn's detail of the entry portico |
Interior sketch made by English artist Roger Fry in 1930. |
Perhaps because of structural concerns, the church in St. Emilion can only be visited on a tour. The space is dark, the visits are strictly controlled and photography
is forbidden. All of this makes it difficult to appreciate the grandeur of the interior and the enormity of the undertaking.
On the other hand, a visit to the church in Aubeterre couldn’t be more different. Five euros
buys you an informative audio guide and as much time as you need to visit the
site. Photography is allowed, although the conditions aren’t exactly ideal for those of us who forget to carry a tripod.
The early history of the church of Saint
Jean remains a mystery. Carved directly into
the floor of the nave is a full-emersion baptismal font in the shape of a Greek cross that is
believed to date to the 4th century. To the left of the nave is a
necropolis containing dozens of tombs carved out fo the stone floor;
these sarcophagi date to the Merovingian era (5th through 8th
century). But the space is undoubtedly older than this. In 1961 a
crypt was discovered beneath the sanctuary when a heavy truck broke through the
roadbed and fell into the heretofore-unknown space. According to the village
web site, this chamber predates the Christian era and was used for sacrifices and Mithraic
rites until the 3rd century, after which it was used for Christian worship.
The necropolis with over 80 sarcophagi. |
The enormous nave, 27 meters
long by 16 meters (88 feet by 52 feet), has an interior ceiling height of 20
meters (over 65 feet), making it the tallest monolithic church in Europe. (St. Emilion, at 125 feet across, is the broadest monolithic church in Europe.) The domed
roof is supported by three hexagonal columns, all that remain of the original fourteen.
High above floor level is a gallery with arched openings that overlook the nave on three sides. This was the original means of entry into the church and it also connected the sanctuary to the castle in the village above.
Taken from the triforium above the nave, view looking east |
This image shows the openings of the triforium that overlook the nave. |
From the triforium looking west to the apse. Below is the baptismal font. |
In the apse is a two-story
reliquary carved out of a single block of stone in Romanesque style. Decorated with clusters of columns and
arches, it was probably designed to hold the relics that Pierre had brought back
from the Holy Land. However, the village website notes that when the reliquary was opened in 1848 it contained four coffins, two of which held the remains of children.
To get a better idea of how
impressive this church is, please take a look at this virtual visit. For my part, I’ll guess I'll just have to be happy with the local churches until I can finagle a trip to Ethiopia.
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